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Old September 12th, 2007, 05:02 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by zme-ul View Post
they aren't using they own driver, it's Creative's but slightly modified
it's because they're using different capacitors and maybe newer/better A/D&D/A converters
exactly.
It's modified by auzen.
And they are using the better components too.
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Old September 12th, 2007, 05:54 PM   #12
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slightly it the key word here ... because Creative won't let them to pick their noses in the driver code
what if Auzen creates netter drivers than Creative ... they sign theirs own burial, Creative's
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Old September 12th, 2007, 09:12 PM   #13
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slightly it the key word here ... because Creative won't let them to pick their noses in the driver code
what if Auzen creates netter drivers than Creative ... they sign theirs own burial, Creative's
You don't know that for sure.
Auzen bought the rights to use the x-fi chip, and that probably includes drivers as well.
Heck, it has to since Auzen is offering new features not included in creative's driver.

As I said in the review, these drivers are not all creative since the card is detected as an "Auzen X-FI Prelude 7.1".
Most of creative's X-FI software has hardware detection, and won't work with the card.

Could be half the reason none of those programs are included with the card.
But I think most of that is Auzen being cheap.

200$ for a basic card and a driver, what a ripoff.

What really gets me though is the incompatibility with my 100$ external bay.
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Old September 12th, 2007, 09:41 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by asdfXTXUltraPro View Post
You don't know that for sure.
Auzen bought the rights to use the x-fi chip, and that probably includes drivers as well.
Heck, it has to since Auzen is offering new features not included in creative's driver.
Auzen doesn't have access to the driver's source code.
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Old September 12th, 2007, 11:09 PM   #15
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Feel the power of 280-watt, THX-certified quality audio while gaming or watching movies.


all this shit makes me laugh ,well it would if it wasnt a serious prob

kids with 1000w boxes thinking they got more power than my 300w stereo made up of two power amps

where the hell doe s it say wattage rating

R.M.S is the true measurement of wattage

P.M.P.O is peak momentary peak out put
so it can prolly push out 280w for a nano second under laboratory (means nothing)
2.8w

and human bass hearing is very flawed so all kinds of tricks can be played too make music appear fine

untill you throw a meter or a trained ear at them


WOW I JUST FOUND THE SPECS PAGE

280W RMS
WITH A BASS RESPONSE FROM 35HZ

I FIND THIS HARD TO BELIEVE BUT THEIR IT IS WRITTEN
WOULD LIKE TOO THROW A METER AT THEM .
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Last edited by morbo; September 12th, 2007 at 11:22 PM..
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Old September 12th, 2007, 11:37 PM   #16
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Well thanks for this great review ... well i don't understand aol shortcuts well here i dont have this issue well :P Next time if you want an great review :P take alot of picture that's is the most nice in one review and benchmark too
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Old September 12th, 2007, 11:50 PM   #17
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a bank of awsome audio meters

the learning curve can be abit step at times

but if you really wanna see whats going on in your room

EAW: Software
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Old September 30th, 2007, 05:30 AM   #18
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Total FTC power: 280 watts RMS
Satellites:
Left/right: 35.25 watts RMS x 2 (into 8 ohms, @ 1 kHz, @ 10% THD)
Rear left/right: 35.25 watts RMS x 2 (into 8 ohms, @ 1 kHz @ 10% THD)
Subwoofer: 100 watts RMS (into 8 ohms, @ 100 Hz, @ 10% THD)
Center channel: 39 watts RMS (into 8 ohms, @ 1 kHz, @ 10% THD)



I thought i may have been a little harsh in my original post

but after reading it and examining the specs better

10%thd=total harmonic distortion (may as well hook megaphones up)

thats the worst stat i ever seen anywhere
the asus sound card i was looking at has something like 0.0001% distortion
and my amp`s is a good match for it.

i would not ever by a audio product from logitech (maybe a mouse)

and for everyone complaining about a lack of bass in the rear speaker`s

Get real your speakers are not capable of more bass, Too add any more bass would damage those little things beyond repair (only bass produced is in the subwoofer)
so no real sound stage either
good news is it`s a 8ohm system so, you can replace the rears with a decent set of book shelve speakers and get a better bass from them ,Maybe if the amp allows the frequency through. I really dont think that would work either), thats how they got those power ratings

hard too explain the nature of audio in a post but 1/2 the power is taken up in the 1st 300hz (maybe a set of 4 to 6 ohm speakers) perfect human hearing extends too 20khz

I would borrow a set too test ,before buying


that still wont stop me from throwing up at the sound quality, even if it did produce more bass

thats it
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Last edited by morbo; September 30th, 2007 at 06:27 AM..
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